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Suzdal
Traveling in the “Golden circle”, tourists find themselves in Suzdal. This town is located in 37 km to the north from Vladimir, it was founded in the Kamenka river. It occupies the territory, equal to 5.5 sq km, the population makes up 12 thousand people. The first record of Suzdal dates from 1024. At that time the peasant uprising, swept over “the whole that land”, flared up. In the middle of 11 century Vladimir Monomah, son of George Dolgoruki, the first independent Suzdal ruler, ascended the prince’s throne. At this time the town became the capital of Rostov-Suzdal princedom, owing to which active building was carried out here, extensive trade craft was developed. In particular, in 1152 by the decree of George Dolgoruki the church of Boris and Gleb, starting white-stone architecture in the north-east of Russia, was built in the country prince’s residence, in village Kideksha, on the bank of the Nerlya. Heir of George Dolgoruki Andrew Bogolubsky transfers the capital of the princedom in Vladimir. However economic flourishing of the town became extinct and it is connected with the Tatar-Mongolian invasion, as the result of which Suzdal was not only destroyed but also plundered. Many foreigners were taken prisoner at that time. Next rulers made unsuccessful attempts to return bygone grandeur of the town. As a result the town became the part of Moscow princedom. Meanwhile, having lost topping political role, Suzdal continued being outstanding cultural, religious and craft center of Russia. Already in 16-17 centuries in the town intensive building started. At this time all recent ensembles, the best of which are architectural constructions of the ancient Kremlin, the Pokrovsky and Spaso-Efimiev monasteries, were erected. The 18th century was noted by intensive building of parish churches in the suburb, and already by the beginning of the 19th century town ensemble of Suzdal formed finally.
Now the town is the large tourist center, where not only Russian but also foreign tourists come. Here are there are over 100 monuments of Russian architecture of XIII-XIX centuries. Some of them are entered into the list of “World heritage” of UNESCO. These are the Kremlin, Pokrovsky and Spaso-Ephimiev monastery, and also the church of Boris and Gleb in Kideksha. Besides that, in 1974 Suzdal was marked by order “Symbol of Honour”, and in 1982 International organization FIJET presented the town “Golden apple”. The high street of the town led to the main sight of Suzdal – the Kremlin. Just beyond the main tower Ilinskaya, meeting tourists, the Uspenskaya church, erected in 1650 and rebuilt in 1720, is located. The prince’s court is located in this place formerly. Right after the church one can see the cathedral of Birth of Mother of God. Formerly this temple was wooden. It was built by order of Vladimir Monomah in 12 century and consecrated in honor of Assumption of Mother of God. At the same time it belonged not to Episcopal or prince’s property, but to the town, and it was unusual for that time. Its history is analogous to similar buildings: time destroyed the walls of the temple inexorably. The mistake of ancient architectures, who had decided to build the cathedral in the place of not less ancient ravine, also adversely affected. As a result the architectural construction began sinking; the walls were covered with cracks, the painting peeled off. As a result in 1194 by order of Jury Dolgoruky the cathedral was rebuilt. These attempts of restoration led to nothing. Therefore in 1222 prince George Vsevolodovitch took the decision to demolish the cathedral, and then overbuilt the top of white stone. Besides rebuilding, they decided to change the name of the temple: the renewed cathedral was consecrated for the sake of Birth of Mother of God. Unlike other similar erections, this cathedral is faced with tuba; this material gives roughness to the walls. White stone was used only in ornament: in the columnar belt, carved portal and other details. However this renewed church was not kept to our days: in 1445 its top was destroyed. They managed to reconstruct it only in a hundred years. At the same time ancient architects added two domes to three hood-shaped. The interior of the erection is interesting for the golden gated, famous all over the world. Unfortunately tourists can’t see them, as they are displayed in the Kremlin belfry. Formerly the golden gates, made in the most complex technique of golden foil on the black ground, decorated the south and west entrances of the cathedral, and the subjects, pictured on them, are devoted to Christ’s life.
Here there are burial places for nobility. In them bodies of several princely families - Shuiskys, Skopins, Belskys – lie.
In 1635 opposite the southern facade of the cathedral a belfry was erected.
After a while the city tower clock, which notified loudly not only every hour, but also every minute, appeared on it. A gallery on stone columns connected the belfry with the Chambers of members of higher orders of clergy. Here, as well as in Bogolyubov, such principle of architecture was realized, when all buildings were connected to the main cathedral. These chambers were built in the 15-th century in the place of an Episcopal palace and partly include details of the previous erection. The evidence of that – the Krestovy chambers, located on the second floor of the erection.
The ensemble of the Kremlin includes also other constructions. So, tourists can familiarize with peculiarities of architecture of two churches - the church of St. Nicola and the church of Christ’s birth. By the way, the second church of St. Nicola it was transferred here from Glotovo village. This is a wooden erection, built on the pattern of “closet temples”. It resembles a usual izba, the basis of which is a closet – a rectangular frame. This church is an exhibit of the unusual museum of Ancient architecture, which includes both household constructions (a mill, a well, a barn, drying houses for drying sheaves), and dwelling houses. The museum starts just beyond the wooden church of St. Nicola. Here there are also other churches – of Transfiguration and Resurrection, brought accordingly from villages Kozljatjevo and Potakino. Authors of this museum managed to reconstruct the whole estate with domestic constructions of 18-19 centuries. All of them stand on the lands of once existing here the Borisoglebsky and Dmitrievsky monasteries. Unfortunately, they were not kept up to now. Only head churches have escaped destruction. At the Borisoglebsky monastery - the cathedral in the name of the princes Boris and Gleb, constructed in 1747, is located. Near them if going in direction of the bridge over the river Kamenka, one can see remains of the third monastery - Kozmodemjansky. Up to now only the church of Kozma and Demjan was kept. Besides that at the Kremlin there are also other constructions. Tourists may visit churches of Birth of John the Baptist, Vhodojerusalemskaya and Pjatnitskaya, the church of Paraskeva Pjatnitsa. On the market square just in front of the Kremlin there is a building of the Gostiny Dvor - a typical construction of the beginning of 19 centuries, intended both for trade, and routs of high society. In front of this building there are “pair” temples, very typical for Suzdal: the cold main church of Christ’s resurrection, built in 1720, and the church of Kazan icon of Mother of God, erected 19 years later. In the north-east of the square one can see another “pair”. These are Tsareconstantinovskaya church and the church of the icon of Mother of God of All Grievings. The most colorful church constructions of Suzdal are two, built one opposite the other. The Church of St. Lazarus is located in Old street. It was built in 1667. It is the five-domed church of suburb type, first in Suzdal. Another one, consecrated in honour of St. Antipy, appeared here a century later. Near them there is a belfry - another marvellous construction, interesting by its dome in the form of a concave hipped roof. Such type of domes appeared in Suzdal for the first time, therefore it got corresponding name “Suzdal pipe”. During restoration the belfry was painted in initial color which gives the flavour of the town life of 17 centuries: among colorless houses the church constructions showed up by bright spots.
Suzdal is famous for its three monasteries: Alexandrov, Pokrovsky and Spaso-Evfimiev monastery. The first was called in antiquity Big Lavra. The legend says that it was founded by Alexander Nevsky in 1240. Owing to this the church cloister was popular among Moscow princes Ivan Kalita and his son Ivan. Here one can see two gravestones of princesses Maria and Agrippina, buried in 1362 and 1393. The Pokrovsky monastery was founded by prince Andrey Konstantinovich in 1364. Its foundation is connected with a legend according to which this sacred monastery appeared as a token of the prince’s gratitude to heavens for his rescue during a storm on the Volga. However constructions of that epoch were not kept, only constructions of 16-18 centuries were kept to our time. The front entrance is decorated with the Sacred gate with íàäâðàòíîé the Blagoveshchenskay church.
On the internal territory there are churches with symbolical dedication, built by instructions of the great duke of Moscow Basil III for his wife Solomonija Saburova, banished in a monastery because of barrenness. The churches are consecrated in honor of the Protection of the Virgin (the sign of divine protection prince’s family), Annunciation of the Virgin (the symbol of foretelling about birth of the future lord) and St. Anna's Conception.
Behind the fighting walls of the monastery there is the church of Peter and Paul, building of which is also connected with a female name. It is considered, that it was erected by instructions of the first wife of Peter I, Eudoxia Lopuhina. Just in memory of her lost son Alexis this temple came to existence. Here the Alexeevsky throne was instituted. Spaso-Evfimiev monastery is situated in the opposite bank of the river Kamenka. In 17 century it entered into the five of the largest monasteries. Besides that, during several centuries it had been the largest proprietor of the town: its estate included the numerous lands of Suzdal purlieus. Besides that, relics of power of the founder and the first prior of the monastery, opened in 1507 attracted attention of numerous pilgrims. At the same time the monastery became a fighting fortification. Numerous loopholes, thick stone walls are the evidences of this fact. Firing an enemy was carried out from the highest tower of the Sacred gate with a height of 22 meters. The ensemble of the monastery includes: the Blagoveshchenskaya church which is situated above the internal gate, the Spaso-Preobrazhensky cathedral – in the center of the monastery, on the right – the big belfry, right behind it – brotherly corps, on the left – the Uspenskaya refectory church and archimandrite corps. On the belfry there were tens bells which were considered the most sonorous in Suzdal. However in 1930 they were sent for remelt. And only by the end of 20 century they managed to return former sound to the monastery: by initiative of the Vladimir -Suzdal museum they have started to collect bells in all Vladimir territory. Now it is possible hear their sounding every hour. Here there is the brotherly corps, the most capacious in Russia. Its extent is more than 100 meters and it accommodates not more than 150 cells.
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